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Refurbing Greenspeed GT3 |
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LWaB 
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Joined: 13 August 2016 Status: Offline Points: 277 |
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 Topic: Refurbing Greenspeed GT3Posted: 31 May 2024 at 4:52pm |
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The Young Lady purchased a used Greenspeed GT3 a while ago but has not ridden it any significant distance due to “it is unsteady at high speed and pulls under brakes”.
The wheels have very low spoke tension and that is easy to fix in itself (I have a tensiometer) but I understand that it is possible to pull Sturmey drums out of round under high spoke tensions. How do I avoid this? There are some other issues. The folding hinge has noticeable play and tightening the QR doesn’t remove the play in the hinge pin, unlike a Birdy, Dahon or Brompton hinge. Is there some trick to removing hinge play that I am missing? The seat frame is removable and has some play in its mountings. Is this normal? The track rods have a fair bit of play. What track rod ends should I buy to get better tolerances? I will adjust toe-in as per the handbook afterwards. |
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RoyMacdonald
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Joined: 09 March 2007 Location: Rye East Sussex Status: Offline Points: 981 |
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Posted: 31 May 2024 at 5:28pm |
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Try emailing them and see if they can offer any advice or new parts. customerservice@greenspeed-trikes.com
All the best. Roy  Edited by RoyMacdonald - 31 May 2024 at 5:29pm |
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LWaB
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Joined: 13 August 2016 Status: Offline Points: 277 |
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Posted: 31 May 2024 at 5:33pm |
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Greenspeed got sold to Terratrike a while back. Existing spares were mostly sold to Trisled with the IP to the USA.
What are some known good track end ball joints in the UK and where can I get them from? What is an acceptable amount of play in track ends? The Young Lady likes to descend quite quickly on her trikes, so I am looking for something that encourages confident descending. Edited by LWaB - 31 May 2024 at 5:37pm |
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Martin Kiszel
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Joined: 05 October 2022 Location: Mansfield Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Posted: 04 June 2024 at 3:53pm |
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Geoff Bird would recommend,
McGill Motorsport - the PTFE lined ones with a brass insert - the high performance ones are too stiff and the cheap ones too loose. Hope he doesn't mind the mention. Martin.
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LWaB
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Posted: 04 June 2024 at 4:53pm |
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Thanks. Time to check exactly what I need when I am back in the country next weekend.
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LWaB
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Posted: 18 June 2024 at 10:59pm |
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The track ball end joints appear to be 5/16” male RH UNF thread. The bore appears to be 5/16” with an M8 Allen bolt pushed into it.
Is this sort of thing correct for a GT3 or has something weird been retrofitted to this trike? If it is correct, my choices are either cheap and nasty or £20+ joints with nothing in between. |
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LWaB
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Posted: 19 June 2024 at 3:33pm |
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WizWheelz folk confirm the ball end joints, though they thought they were paired LH/ RH threaded. All four of these are RH threaded though.
https://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/5/16-x-5/16-right-hand-male-xmr5-ultra-high-performance-rod-end-c-55-p-46 is in the mail. Hopefully there won’t be too much drag. Edited by LWaB - 19 June 2024 at 6:14pm |
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Martin Kiszel
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Joined: 05 October 2022 Location: Mansfield Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Posted: 19 June 2024 at 4:13pm |
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I bought some Performance ones (M6) very recently and they don't feel tight at all, they are silky smooth, with snug tolerances. Bang on.
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MattH
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Posted: 30 June 2024 at 8:31am |
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For the hubs, when I got my Trice it shuddered when braking, which i guessed was them being out of round through a bit of googling. I bought an inexpensive lever dial gauge from eBay and mounted it against my truing stand, with the lever against the braking surface. This allowed me to adjust tensions to pull it back into being round whilst keeping the wheel true.
This did work very well - all shudder gone and smooth braking. As I didn't care about the actual numbers on the gauge being calibrated, just minimising deflection, a cheap one was good enough.
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LWaB
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Posted: 30 June 2024 at 5:40pm |
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There is a tiny bit of drag in these ball ends but I think it helps stabilise the steering, at least that is the rider’s impression..
There is still pulsing in the brakes, possibly because the Sun rims are not entirely round, so there is some variation in spoke tension just to get the wheel true. I suspect I will have to do the dial gauge + spoke tension and possibly sand a drum to stop all of the brake pulsing. It is currently good enough for the Young Lady to actually put some training miles on it. Next job is to bond the carbon wheel fairings to the 349 rims of her ICE Micro. Any traps for the unwary player? |
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