NickM wrote: Don't break anything!

The only thing I've broken so far is the "Quality" bearings in my SJS rear hub.  Totally seized.  Kaput.  Mort.     I can't recommend them lowly enough for heavy use. 

2x 6000 2RS and all's well again, but no refund, replace of even free bearings from the Bridgwater Bandits .

"SJSC Double Fixed Track Hubs with High Quality Sealed Bearings - 36 Hole - Polished Alloy  Product Code: 11137"

phil wood high flange won't seize up on you. I got mine from http://www.hubjub.co.uk/philwood/philwood.htm. Hope santa sends you some ;-)

Yowie wrote: ... so unless PW use much better sealed cartridge bearings, or they are shielded from the crud I can't justify the expense.

1. From the Phil Wood web site
"We specify the race tolerance, surface honing, ball diameter tolerance, bearing material, gap dimensions, and seal specifications. Standard bearings are 100% filled with Phil Waterproof Grease to ensure maximum durability.

Any of our bearings with an “x” in the part number have seals that are as good or better than those found in the highest quality submersible motor and pump bearings."

[Ref: http://www.philwood.com/products/bearings/]

2. They are very shiny. And, have the words 'phil' hand painted in red in the middle of the hub body. What more could you want ?

3.Very important non-obvious benefit: Riding fixed rear wheel with mud guards is a really pain if / when you get a flat: the combination of track nuts, guards and a tight chain can mean that it is impossible to remove the wheel !. The usual solution to this is to mount the guards on sks chromoplastic secu-clips. However.... The phil fixed hubs do not have a through axle !: instead the lock nuts screw into the hub. This means (a) you can remove the wheel with an allen key (no more carrying around a big spanner to get track-nuts off) and (b) when you remove the lock nut screws the wheel just drops straight out - problem solved.